In June
and July, 2014, Elaine and Mike Von der Porten
embarked
on a venture to Montana. Here are some
notes
and
photos.
Day 9 - Sunday, June 22
We did get out to the Giant Fountain which L&C found -- a massive spring that dumps
into the Missouri River 200 feet later. We also visited a couple of the upper falls.
Mike got out to the last part of a Voyagers minor league baseball game Saturday evening --
much like old Crushers games, but with 2,300 in attendance.
Travels Day 10 - Monday, June 23
Today we headed to the Great Falls at Great Falls -- the eastern-most falls, the first ones encountered by Lewis& Clark. There is a nice park at the base of the falls and great views. The dam just upstream changes the look, but the
falls are like they were in 1805.
We cross the 1,500 mile mark for the trip.
We headed to Fort Benton about 30 miles east. This was the end of the riverboat traffic on the Missouri, so was a major city for a few decades. There is the Missouri Breaks Interpretive Center, the local museum (quite good), the Fort which
includes the oldest building in Montana and the Agricultural Museum. The place is worth two days. The town itself is
a National Historic Landmark and almost a ghost town. There is a riverfront walk with numerous historical panels.
As a promotion, each shop and site in town has charms for sale for $2 and necklaces, earring findings and bracelets are available -- very creative!
Fort Benton was also the home of Shep, a dog of railroad fame.
After dinner, we headed a few more miles east to the L&C Decision Point where they had to figure out whether the Marias River or the Missouri River was the right choice. After a few days of survey, they went left up the Missouri toward the falls.
This was the eastern-most point for this part of the trip.
Back to Great Falls for the evening.
Day 11 – Tuesday, June 24, 2014
We spent the morning and 1/2 the afternoon at the Charles Russell Museum -- the artist
who lived in Great Falls until his death in 1926. The museum was expanded in recent years.
https://www.cmrussell.org/
There are extensive exhibits and Russell's home and studio which are the basis for the site.
In Montana, we've found the Cottonwood trees to produce so much fluffy seed that it's like
snow! We hear that planting one can bring the ire of your neighbors -- it plugs up
air conditioners. We've also found that because the dams have messed up the ecology in which
cottonwoods grow, the beavers are "winning," so many trees have wire cages to keep them from
being brought down by the beavers.
In the afternoon, we headed to First Peoples Buffalo Jump, a site where bison were driven
over a cliff as a way to kill them. This is one of the highest "jumps" and was used for hundreds
of years before the introduction of the horse. There is a museum, and a trail and a road to the
top. With lightning visible in the distance, we drove to the top and took a short hike,
getting back before the rains arrived.
http://stateparks.mt.gov/first-peoples-buffalo-jump/
We drove out to the site where the Lewis & Clark Great Falls Portage ended, but it's all private
property and the site has no markers.
Day 12 -- Wednesday June25
Wednesday found us headed south from Great Plains an hour or so. This is though country with a few volcanic areas, so spectacular scenery.
[future note - get off the highway southbound at Castle Rock State Park and take the old road for
five miles]
We got to the Gate of the Mountain area where there is a boat trip up into an area not accessible by
car. There is much about the ranching history of the area and the bad smokejumper fire that killed
13 in 1949.
The boat trip was excellent with a very good captain / guide. Not only are the formations (as described by the Lewis & Clark group) excellent, we also saw a few bald eagles -- quite close.
Heading further south, we got into Helena where we got a personal tour of the state Capitol. (How cool is it that the guide has keys to both the House and Senate chambers?)
state cap photo
Then went over to the Montana Historical Society Museum. They have a white bison (1 in 5 million) and several good exhibits.
We walked the area of the Governor's Mansion and got into the Saint Helena Cathedral - quite a gothic cathedral with much stained glass.
State Capitol
Gates of the Missouri
Heading south, we dropped by a Montana Grain Milling operation and stayed at the Lewis & Clark Hotel in Three Forks.
Side Note: Coming into Helena, we found flags at half-staff. We learned that this was
for six people killed in an accident just southeast of Helena. The Firechief of Three Forks
was driving an engine back from repairs in Helena and it collided with a car head-on. We
had heard of that, but not that this received state-wide honors. When we arrived in
Three Forks, we found that the service for the fireman had been earlier that day and that
the Sacagawea Hotel’s bar had been filled with service attendees.
Day 13 -- Thursday June 26
We headed out and Ann at the Lodge said we could ask about a tour at the local talc company. We did that – the staff
there said they really do like to give tours, but that this was the one bad day of employee meetings. So, we may do that
on the way back in September.
Off to the actual Three Forks State Park where the Madison River and the Jefferson River
join to form what’s now called the Missouri. Then Gallatin River joins in. Lewis &
Clark only agreed that the waters were the Missouri after all three rivers joined.
Pulling into one site in the park, Elaine spotted something next to the bushes. She got off two snapshots before it moved into the woods. We’re pretty sure it was a badger!
We’ve been surprised by the amount of cactus among the grasses across the plains. It’s all of low-lying prickly pear varieties. Much of the cactus is now in bloom – quite nice.
Inside the park, there’s a county / state road. There is about 2” to 4“ of pavement to the right of the fog line to the right. I’d expect the speed limit to be about 35 MPH, but the posted limit is 70 MPH!
No wonder there are white crosses (maintained by the American Legion) so often.
We headed south, finding Beaverhead Rock, the location where Sacagawea recognized “home” territory.
At we Dillon, we visited the local museum and Clark’s lookout which allows a good view of the area.
The Rattlesnake Cliffs are a prominent feature heading south (and up-river) and were named for what L&C encountered --
there in good numbers!
Then, we headed to Camp Fortunate, where Sacagawea met her brother and the L&C expedition traded in canoes for horses and began the westward (although is started mostly northward!) journey.
The actual camp is now under this reservoir. This view is looking west – the direction L&C would travel up across the
Continental Divide the first time.
We continue to find parks and sites with very few people – still before “tourist season,” although we did encounter some visitors around the Three Forks area traveling between Yellowstone NP and Glacier NP.
In places, we have also found the infamous Montana mosquitoes! We are glad to have some repellent with us.
We headed to Jackson where we had dinner. There is a lodge there that has a pool
fed by the hot springs described by L&C. [Future travel note: plan to stay there and
try out the pool – it said 105 deg. F.]
We’re staying in Wisdom, MT. A mile before town, we spotted a fox carrying a rabbit.
We slowed and followed the fox all the way into town. His den must be along the
river in town! We’ve never had a close encounter with any fox before.
Arriving in town, we were greeted with a bright rainbow.
Wisdom is the first place we’ve been without working internet and without working cell phones! Communication must wait until Friday!
Stayed at the Pioneer Mountain Lodge. A big room with a full kitchen and a second bedroom. $75 including taxes.
Day 14 -- Friday June 27
Friday started in Wisdom, MT. Headed out of town, we were "stuck" in a roundup. The herd of cows
had been brought to a gate, then led down the two-lane road right at us! Five cowboys on horses and one woman in a pickup truck were handling the job - an authentic Montana experience.
Then, off to Big Hole National Battlefield. This is where the Nez Perce were attacked by the U.S.
Cavalry, but the Indians were able to mount an effective counterattack.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Big_Hole_National_Battlefield
Then, a run to the west, up and over a couple of passes, then north along the Bitterroot Valley.
Coming off the highway, the GPS said the home of Karl & Louise Joost was "right there." Actually,
it is 10 miles up the paved road and 1 mile further up the dirt road.
They have 40 acres, a lovely 2-story house, two donkeys, pasture, and several months of snow. The
other way in is to the north over 6 miles of dirt road straight into the Lolo Pass road.
Day 15 -- Saturday, June 28 Day
Saturday, we headed over to Travelers' Rest, the Lewis & Clark site. we took a guided tour and went through the museum. They have a hands-on section where people can handle, unsupervised, all types
of L&C materials including a flint-lock rifle, compasses, clothing, peace mdeals and more.
Bear grass along Petty Creek Road
We then headed to the US Forest Service's Smokejumper Visitor Center. The tour there goes through the
whole operations -- chute packing room, sewing room (where all packs ar made by the crews), chute
testing room, locker room, supplies room (where the boxes of supplies with parachutes are ready
to go). This is the heart of the operations, not a sterile tour.
We dropped by the Museum of Mountain Flying. They were to be hosting a wedding, so let us walk
through. They have the plane that dropped the smokejumpers into the Mann Gulch Fire -- in flying
condition.
From there, we dropped by Fort Missoula where we walked the grounds. There is an operating steam lumber mill, other lumber exhibits and more.
The local amateur radio people were working Field Day, so we visited with them.
Two towers and a crane gave them good antenna choices. Not a bad operating location, either!
We picked up a copy of Red Skies of Montana which was filmed in Missoula, which we're watching this evening.
Day 16 -- Sunday, June 29, 2014 – Day 16
Visited the Nine Mile Remount Station. This is a horse and mule training and preparation station for firefighters.
Then, to Dick’s home in Polson, MT.
© Michael Von der Porten All Rights Reserved